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Hop Style
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When rapper Lil Wayne stepped onto the MTV Video Music Awards stage this year, he set tongues and tweets wagging with his skintight, safariinspired pants. Critics and fans largely panned Weezy Tripp NYC leopard print skinny jeans (jeans, not jeggings). Aside from the fact that they left nothing to the imagination below the equator, technically they were women jeans. Hiphop biggest artist had essentially crossdressed on national television. Unlike other facets of entertainment, hiphop has traditionally been hypercritical of gender bending, save for comedic relief like Eminem wearing a dress to mock Britney Spears in the music video for Real Slim Shady. The outcry, then, was understandably tremendous: Had Lil Wayne become soft? What was next: Rappers duking it out in kilts?
Hiphop style has always been steeped in an ideal of urban masculinity, with rappers going to great lengths to exude machismo and power. As the paragon of what manliness is call it that "je ne sais quoi" or the more colloquial "swag" has changed through time, so has the acceptable image of what a rapper should look like. Wayne was merely reflecting the current freespirited ethos where styles bleed into each other and a man exerts his influence through individualism. Streetwear maven Big Sean summed up the carefree philosophy to us earlier this year: you a trendsetter instead of following the trends, you really don give a fck about anything.
To fully understand how we got to this point, we dove into our archives to examine a brief history of hiphop most influential looks and the underlying notions of masculine identity that propelled them from the neighborhood block to the runway.
Dealers BBoys: Late '70s To Mid '80s
Male Identity: Dealers sat atop the drugfueled economy and served as role models for men growing up in the inner city. This, coupled with the silhouette of the popular BBoy craze, created the early fashion norm.
Hiphop style begins at the birthplace of the culture itself, in the South Bronx, amid Reaganera politics and the onset of the crack epidemic. These conditions created innercity microeconomies where drug dealers like Harlem Azie Faison represented the pinnacle of wealth and power to young men. Dealers choice of dress big goldrope chains (dubbed chains for their appearance), Kangol hats, Modern Creation Munich leathers,[url=http://www.sport.fr/smartphones/moncler.asp]doudoune moncler[/url], and designer brands such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci represented success in the ghettos. Early artists, from LL Cool J to Big Daddy Kane, wanted to emulate the same largerthanlife personas as they created their stage images.
Interestingly, the authenticity of the brand names was not as important as its essence during this time. A designer of sorts, Dapper Dan, famously launched his own cottage business in Harlem by creating custom pieces for rappers using swatches of highend logos from luxury garment bags to make anything from jackets to suits. The uniqueness and flagrance (who really believed that Gucci made gaudy black and gold tracksuits?) is what allowed Dan to charge high prices. Steep, even by today standards according to DEFinition: The Art and Design of HipHop by Cey Adams and Bill Adler: for a outfit, $1,400 for Vuitton and for

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